Final Breath


If you might not know already I LOVE to surf. I surf around 3 times a week and can not get enough. Its very hard to describe how addicting it is so just trust me when I say its addicting. If you wanna be a good surfer there are a few things you need to know. Firstly, when you surf you will get hurt. I have cut my head on my fines numerous times and even know people who had to get stitches. Whats most important is not how good you are but that when you have a bad day or you get hurt you keep surfing. This is the only way to get better. As a wise woman once said “The bad days only make the good day so much better.”

Besides a good attitude, to be a good surfer you must know the rules. These rules are that you say hi to people when you paddle to the line up and that you don’t drop in on people. Dropping in on people is when someone is already surfing the wave and you paddle and stand up in front of them so they loose there wave.

Another important rule is to relax and keep calm when you wipe out. When you take your last breath before going under you want to keep your heart beating as slow as possible. When your heart beats fast it consumes more oxygen therefore forcing you to go up sooner than you want to. Thank you for reading and if you have the chance I hope you try to go surf.


49 thoughts on “Final Breath

  1. Hi Nicholas,
    Great post but would be even better if you included a couple of links to other websites about surfing. Maybe one where it explains the terminology.

    • Hi. My name is Amanda. I like to surf as well, and I think your blog is very interesting. Please comment on my blog,

  2. Surfing sounds fun, but I am still to young to do it!

    I dont understand this part ” bad days only make the good day so much better”. So you are saying surfing is bad, or you had a bad cut???

    Visit and Comment me too

    From Karah

    • Hey Karah
      Thanks for the comment I really appreciate it. When I say that bad days only make the good day so much better I mean that when the waves are bad or you get hurt and you come back to surf and the waves are good and you dont get hurt you feel a lot happier.

  3. Awesome post! This makes me want to start surfing! I am addicted to softball. It is awesome how you have that big of a passion for surfing! Is it hard to learn all of the rules of surfing? I bet it would be for me! Also, about how long are you underwater for when you go underwater? This post is so cool!

  4. Hey Nicholas, I really liked your blog because you are so passionate about your favourite thing to do, I have never been surfing before but I might try it after you said how addicting it is. I love swimming, especially in an ocean so I’ll probably like surfing, nice blog I hope to see more soon

  5. Interesting… Surfing sounds like a lot of fun! and a bit scary for me,especially the part where people get stitches.
    You surf 3 times a week? Cool! You must have gone to the beach plenty of times,Where I live the beach is really far(too bad).
    I would really like to try surfing someday,maybe when I’m older? I really liked your post, Keep up the great work!

    Come and visit my blog too when you have the time.

  6. This was a great post. I also like to go surfing with uncle. He takes me surfing in Hawaii with some of my cousins. Where do you like to go surfing?

  7. Good post I learn something new everyday right. I can really relate to this because I play baseball and I love it I play about 2 to 3 ours every day for 4 days a week its kinda like your addicted to surfing but its baseball. You can see more about me at

  8. Hey,
    I really like your post, the title is really catchy. Do you like to do other activities or is surf the one thing you like to do the most. I never tried to surf but it has always been something I would like to try.

  9. hey Nick I totally agree with you surfing is a passion for me too and wipe outs are the worst but you still have to get back on your board.

  10. Hi Nicholas, This was really interesting to read. I didn’t know this happened. I would really like to start surfing but I am busy and am kinda scared after having read this. But, you put some very inspirational things on this post. Thank you

  11. I can see where you like to surf, I have never done it but after reading this it sounds really fun. I also like how you described hoe to do it what happens to you if you get hurt I think you did outstanding on this.

  12. Hi Nicholas, This blog was pretty cool! I have never gone surfing, but after reading this it really makes me want to try it sometime. It sounds like you can get hurt pretty bad. I also like how you put a lot of detail into this post. Maybe you could come check out my blog at

  13. So you love surfing? I would love to learn so I go to the beach a lot, and all I do is dig holes with my little bro, boggie board, and swim. I always see someone out there surfing, and I wish I was them. Could you check out my blog, and comment, and give me some tips about surfing?
    Have fun blogging.

  14. Wow!
    I never surfed but it looked interesting too! I loved your article because you made me want to try surfing!
    Visit me if you can…:)

  15. Hi, I thought you blog was really interesting. I always wanted to surf, but it scared me. It sounds like you live near a beach. I hope you come visit my site at

  16. I have always wanted to learn how to surf, but I was always too scared. Thanks for the tips though. My family doesn’ t usually visit the beach, but if we did matbe someone could teach me. How did you figure out that you like surfing?

    Come check out my blog at

  17. Hi Nicholas,
    This post was great. I have never been surfing even though I have had numerous opportunities to surf. However, I do hope to surf in the near future at Malibu which is the nearest beach from my house. Have you ever heard of or seen the movie Soul Surfer? That movie made me reluctant to go surfing, but when I went to a sea camp on Catalina Island, I learned that more people are killed by coconuts that sharks.
    Keep calm and surf on,
    P.S. Come check out my blog @

    • Hi Emalia
      Thanks for commenting. I live in Senegal so i’m not sure this know this spot but my favorite spot to surf is Secret Spot.

  18. Hey Nicholas,
    My name is Luli. I live in Malibu, California and love to surf too. Even though I have a very busy schedule with soccer and running, I try to get out into the water with my dad and friends every Sunday. During the summer, I go to a surf camp called Malibu Makos and always have the time of my life although I definitely get some boards in the head and pretty banged up.
    You should check out my blog @

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